...but it also had the person"s address, so I returned it. Strange. July 30. It"s been almost six weeks now since we submitted the visa application, and I"m starting to want to go home, or at least do something! One can only "relax" so much before becoming overly dull in mind and body. But last week, with Alexandra Brannigan and kids Finn and Saiorse, and parents Sofokles and Eleftheria Dimitrakopouli at their house(s) on Aegina, in Vaia (Vagia), proved delightful—loving hospitality, lazy days at the shore (enfolded by the water, baked by the sun), realising the benefits of a siesta, playing with the kids (Finn is 5; Saiorse is 20 months; both are adorable in their own ways), walking to the Temple of Afaia (once I found the correct road, it was not too hard!), nights in Aegina town with Alexandra, at the bar Avla with her childhood friends, an evening in Perdika, where we had a drink at Ermes, our discussions; our enjoyment of the same music, translations, books, adventures. And Sofokles started to teach me Greek! I would learn it just to be able to talk with him; he seems to have a library in his head. And Eleftheria"s graceful spirit and enfolding hospitality. A blissful, blessed three nights and three-and-a-half days. I bought a ceramic boat—very simple in its artistry, making it all the more worthwhile—in Aegina town in the last 10 minutes before the boat left for Pireaus. I probably should not have spent the 24€, but do like to have nice memories, unique and artistic. I like my boat. Otherwise, it"s been a calm few days. Beach with Nikolai, Galya and a Radoslav from Veliko Turnovo yesterday. The Benaki museum this morning, wearing my new clothes (yeah! J"aime les soldes!). Overall content, though wanting to do something purposeful. I do not feel like I have been wasting my time here—for I do not know really what else I could be doing—but would like to do Something... Books read in the past week: The House of the Spirits, by Isabel Allende Stamboul Train, by Graham Greene (now reading) Ballet Shoes for Anna, by Noel Streitfield I would like to mention my two favourite "fournoi"/"zaharoplaste?a" in Athens: The one at odos Ethnarhou Makariou 150, called Arteoplastsio (?) where the pasteries are superb and the bread, too. The one at leoforos D Vouliagmenis 70, called Hristou, where I melt for the day-old rolls and croissants that have been split, spread with chocolate, and soaked in sugar syrup. Such places will I greatly miss in Bulgaria, where the art of bread and pastries is becoming an industrial labour, not one of art.

July 17. Shopping! I get a really cute knickers-skirt combo and a top at CopCopine and three cheap, trendy tops at a store called Pull and Bear. I"m still in a somewhat pissy mood, particularly in the evening (it kind of comes and goes; I feel bad for Mum having to put up with this, and that I just have no interest in being social), partially tired, partially feeling the wear of being in a state of limbo: I could, any day, receive a call or an e-mail saying that my visa had arrived, and I would have to return to Sofia, to (re-)start my life, and leave my other life here. It"s weird. I, in some senses, feel so established, so connected here: it will be trying to leave it. Mum and I go to coffee with Alexis, at Ydria near the Tower of the Winds in Plaka. I am glad that she can meet my friends here.

July 16. Acropolis, Bath House/Hamam museum (very cool; I like such intimate museums, because they can bring the past to life, make it relatable to us), Tour of the Winds, Ancient Agora, what else did we visit? By the time we returned, it about 5.30pm, and K was still at home, trying to get his paper done before travelling to Bulgaria. I feel bad for him, being stuck with school in the middle of summer, when he should be in Sliven visiting his dad. We go together to the train station that evening, to get his ticket, while Mum stays at home and reads. Later, Mum and I go to Syntagma, where we greet George. I hope she"s liking her time here in Athens.

July 16. Acropolis, Bath House/Hamam museum (very cool; I like such intimate museums, because they can bring the past to life, make it relatable to us), Tour of the Winds, Ancient Agora, what else did we visit? By the time we returned, it about 5.30pm, and K was still at home, trying to get his paper done before travelling to Bulgaria. I feel bad for him, being stuck with school in the middle of summer, when he should be in Sliven visiting his dad. We go together to the train station that evening, to get his ticket, while Mum stays at home and reads. Later, Mum and I go to Syntagma, where we greet George. I hope she"s liking her time here in Athens.

July 15. Three propositions (and a fourth one that I will not find out about till later... bah), and only one possibility: spending the day with Elena. We went to church, then E, Mum and I went to Pireia, the flea market, which was by then closing down. Not necessary to go again, in any case. That evening, I was still, again, tired and feeling anti-social, but we three walked to Lykavittos, the highest hill in Athens, where there is a church to Aghios Giorgios. Nice time talking (me and Elena, as I could not translate fast enough to keep Mum filled in on everything, nor was it necessary to translate the same thing five times over, in all detail, told in slightly different manners). Back in Dafni, we Mum and I headed to a nearby restaurant. We had a nice dinner, souvlaki and Mythos, at a restaurant near Plateia Dafni, and on the way back, stopped at the Middle Eastern store on the square. There, I introduced Mum to Bridgitte, the Lebanese lady whom I"d met on thursday along with her daughter Anna, and Bridgitte introduced us to her Greek-German (and Lebanese by assimilation, as he lived there 14 years) husband, Paul. It was like seeing family or something, we were all so joyous. Bridgitte gave us each a bottle of Lebanese mango nectar as a gift. Such kindness can be found in people. But the other propositions: Nikolai from church invited me to the beach; Alex called to go to coffee; (and on Monday, I would see in an e-mail): E Brann invited me to meet him and Aldra for an outdoor film Sunday evening. The last one would have been ideal. But he still told me to call Aldra to meet up during the week, so I will!

July 14. Mum arrived today. Hristo and Vanya invited us over for lunch. Hristo said to me: "You haven"t hugged yet, have you?" How did he know? We had a nice time there, and I was in a good mood, and Mum and I walked for a while, and when we returned home, I was not in a good mood. Or, fell into a bad mood. A woman came, and I thought she was K"s girlfriend, because she opened the door by herself. So I asked him, and he looked at me like I was crazy: "She"s a friend of my mother"s! and knew where to find the key." I felt a little better, but was still in a bad mood. Very tired. Went to Syntagma, but did not want to see anyone, so sat alone. Returning, I was in a better mood, because K and I talked for a while, then I went to talk with Elena and her friend, Tanya. They were talking men. I think E felt a bit strange talking such in front of me, but we had a good time. In Sofia, Georgi was an angel and met Mum at the airport, went with her in the taxi to my flat, ran to the Echo office and picked up the key, took my bills to pay, so I could pay him back later to avoid fees and hassels, called her a taxi for the next morning... How much I appreciate him.

July 13. This has been fun. Every night since Monday, I"ve been going to Syntagma, and meeting George (from church). We talk with the others who happen to be there—random Bulgarians, a Romanian named Mario, a Greek from Patra named Tassos—and discuss and share and drink beer. Alexis and I went to coffee again yesterday, somewhere far enough away, in a woods, direction Glyfada, but not all the way there. Good time; I appreciate his Christian wisdom and knowledge. At Syntagma last night, a Bulgarian named Roumen "Debelya" came to me for help with loading music onto his iPod... but, ultimately, I was stuck. Interesting guy, an award-winning tattoo artist who"s been in Greece for the past 10 or so years. K and I went today to try and finish with some bureaucracy for his uni documents. I azked him what makes him happy, and he said that bringing someone to Christ makes him happy, sharing Christ with someone. This got us on to the topic of (my opinion) that we should find joy in this life, enjoy what God has given us, be it a result of creations of non-believers or believers and (him) how Christians should separate themselves from the things of this world, how they should not dress like they belong to any particular group, how, because this world will all be destroyed anyways, there is no reason to take pleasure in human creation, because that separates us from God. Ultimately, I would say that I understand his point and even agree, but not to such an extreme degree. As Alexis said yesterday, the purpose of this life is to live; that"s why God put us here.

July 10. DRou decided that he needed to work on the book more, so I do not have a job. Poo. But I did get paid for seven hours of work, at least... Which is more than what I make in two weeks at The Sofia Echo. On the bus ride there, three teenage boys (with awesome coiffs) started talking to me. They were endearing. One asked me how old I am: "How old do you think?" I said. "Thirty-five," he said, and the two other boys and I started to laugh, "Not yet," I said. "Op, 25," he said. But he was not too embarrassed to keep on talking. When we had descended the bus, one of them offered to help carry the bag (heavy) that contained the book that I had been editing. I accepted. Fun interaction, nice boys going to the beach on a summer"s day. And otherwise, I"m at home, being somewhat bored, but appreciating the downtime, and trying to not feel too guilty about not accomplishing anything significant. . Oh, last night, the cashier at that cool deli on odos Voulis where I go to get beer got up the nerve to ask me out. It was cute. "You drink wine?" he said. "Tomorrow, we can drink wine. I"m off at 10pm." "If I"m here tomorrow, ok," I said. Leaving, I could not help but crack up to myself. Will I go? Still unsure—but I"ll have to buy beer somewhere... I was not going to return to Syntagma tonight, but George (who was there last night) said that I should come again. Why not—nothing else to do! (Not like I"m saying that in a last-resort way, just stating a fact.) Books I"ve read, or am reading, since arriving in Greece: Le soleil des Scorta (Laurent Gaude) Tu es une rivi?re (Chi Li—very good!!!) What Love Is This? Calvinism"s Misrepresentation of God (Dave Hunt) De l"utopie au d?sastre (Vladimir Boukovski) (It"s later now, and I"m at Syntagma: I didn"t go to the deli. Poor lad.)

July 9. At home most of the day, save for when I take walks. K says he knows Athens like the back of his hand. By the time I"m out of here, I, too, will know it almost that well. Yes, I get lost often, but not lost, not exactly: just somewhere where I do not know, somewhere other than where I wanted to be at that moment. It"s partially, too, because turning corners draws me: what lies on the other side? And also, because streets change names constantly, even in the same borough, so you do not know if the street you are passing is one on which you have been before, further up. A week or so ago, Kevin Heiner asked me to tell him something weird about Greece. Here goes: —Street/wild cats have really long legs. —Stores open at 9am, and, on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays, close between 4pm and 6pm, and at about 9pm on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays. —People seem to spend all their days sitting around in caf?s, drinking frappe or freddo. —Children do not receive discipline. Perhaps this co-incides with the dismaying presence of tagging, everywhere, even on churches and blocks of flats. I also should have said: —People honk their horns when approaching intersections or pulling their car away from the curb. —Men are much more, um, vocal about their appreciation of women. I have received numbers of compliments, the most recent one being (in English, at that: how did he know?): "How come XXX (I think he either said foreigners or girls; I had my iPod on, listening to Bulgarian folk music) always have such nice bodies?" I realised someone was talking to me, and turned and smiled, not yet having registered his words. "Always slender, like this," he said, forming an hourglass with his hands. —There is a church somewhere in about 1km distance from anything. And people cross themselves when passing by a church. —For the Olympic Games (2004), pavements (trottoirs, sidewalks, what have you) were laid throughout the city. And the city planted street trees (usually bitter orange). But: the street trees are in the smack-dab middle of the pavement, taking up the middle third of an already narrow walkway. —Mythos is better than Alfa. And better than Amstel and Heineken, in my opinion, though, because Greek, not as popular with the locals.

July 8. It"s a beautiful day. Though, until about 5pm, I was in a somewhat bad mood, due to the vacillation of DRou, and the fact that he just seems so on-and-off, unprepared, about the book, and because I"m afraid that I asked too much (20€/hour). I said: "In the States, the going rate is $25/hour, or 20€/hour. What is reasonable for you?" And he said that that was a lot, but he"d pay what I asked, for the work so far. But he wants me to work off some other copy (on disk), which he had not found yet, which is dumb, because then why did he have me start at all? And I had to go search for an internet caf?, because he had not printed out the copy that I sent him (like I have a printer?), and then he left, while I was out looking, and finally returned, and still is not sure if he really wants this done or not. So we meet on Tuesday, with all the materials. Putain. But it got better, if only because Elena and I talked for a while. And then we go on a walk. I"m hesitant at first, but decide that the company would be nice,And she buys a lottery ticket... and talks about how, if she wins, (stuff I"m not going to write here!!!). But think: I like this; let"s continue this train of thought! And make it action

July 7. Elena went to the beach. Yessss! A day at home of independent working and a few random words. I love going to the markets here, seeing all the produce and hearing the people. So far, I"ve been to the one in Dafni (Wednesdays), off leoforos Imittou (Fridays) and in Neos Kosmos (Saturdays). The best apricots are rather gone now. They were so fragrant and sweet. Now, they"re advertised as being like honey ("meli"), but are more like cardboard. D called later in the day, and we talked for a while, and then I"m happy. Alexis calls and invites me to go to a wedding with him. It seemed a strange thing to do, to me, but I did not mind: a cultural experience, eh? After the wedding (a Protestant ceremony, thus not unlike ones in the States), we get into a conversation about why Christians should not dress differently, identifying with certain trends or groups, or do things to draw attention (his opinion) and why there is nothing wrong with standing out, because it might draw certain types of people (me). It ended with me saying: "Let"s not talk about this any more right now, because I feel like anything I say is going to be shot down." Him: "It"s not being shot down!" Me: (hand motion for "finished"). We"ll see if I hear from him again. After, some of K"s friends (Bobby and Lahaela, Eva and Georgios) and I went to Diogenis, where K joined us. Eva speaks French, so we had a rewarding time trying our language out.

July 6. Another day chez Hristo and Vanya. Salmon for lunch (yum), Bulgarian mothering to no end, but in an endeaing way. I"m there till after 9pm, and they enjoy having me, saying that I"m like a replacement daughter for them. This makes me happy :)

July 4. DRou finally gets things going, and I go to his office in Glyfada to take a look at the book, and do a trial edit. Cool. Me, a real book editor! That would be a fab job... The walk I take tonight takes me to a hill, not too high, but like an island of nature in the middle of built-up city. Wind, fresh air, arms outstretched to God.

July 3. Wake up just as K is leaving for Patra. Later in the day, he calls, and asks if I"d like to go out with some of his friends, to not be bored. So I go out with an Alexis T to Diogenis (in Plaka). Nice time, interesting conversation (but no interest otherwise on my side!).

July 2. Today I learned that I have a nice ass. Or, at least, according to the youth and friend past whom I walked this morning, “You have a nooooiss ass” (complete with Greek accent). Thanks, guys. Tell me something new next time. I cannot sit here anylonger, because Elena keeps on bringing me food.